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Axial Base Camp Light Kit

Axial Base Camp Light Kit Front
Axial Base Camp Light Kit Rear
MYK-AX22  Axial Base Camp Light Kit

MyTrickRC's Axial Base Camp Light Kit is the perfect upgrade for your 1/10th scale Axial Base Camp Build. The MyTrickRC Axial Base Camp Light Kit offers some great scale features including High Intensity Headlights, Rock Lights, Tail Lights, and Front Running Lights.

Freedom To Expand

Since the Axial Base Camp Light Kit uses the HB-2 Lighting Controller you have some great Upgrade Options available to you. Want to add a Light Bar or Fog Lights? Upgrades are easy with the HB-2. You can add any single Attack Light Bar or up to 3 pairs of Spot Lights to an available High Power Port.

What's Included

  • 2 pair High Power Attack Headlights
  • 2 pair High Power Attack Spot Lights for Rock Lights
  • 1 pc 3mm Dual Red Tail Lights
  • 1 pc 3mm Dual Yellow Front Running Lights
  • 2 pc 2-Way LED Splitter with Quick Disconnect (for Headlights & Rock Lights)
  • 1 pc 3S Balance Power Power Cable
  • 1 pc 2S Balance Power Power Cable
  • HB-2 Lighting Controller
  • Zip Ties and Zip Tie Mounts for clean wiring management

Installing Your Lights

We'll split this install into two main parts: Body-Mounted Lights and Chassis-Mounted Lights. The cabling for this Light Kit comes with handy Quick Disconnects that let you quickly disconnect your Vehicle Body from the Chassis so you can work on each separately and still easily put everything back together.

Body-Mounted Lights

Front Lights

Using a pointy tipped tool, carefully mark the center of the first Headlight Hole.

Mark Headlight Hole Center

Using a body reamer, ream the first Headlight Hole. The Headlight Holes should be just large enough for the Attack Headlight LED to shine through the Vehicle Body.

Ream the first Headlight Hole

Using a body reamer, clean up the inside of the Headlight Hole. Take care not to enlarge the hole too much.

Clean up the inside of the Headlight Hole

Using a hobby knife, clean up the Headlight Hole.

Clean up Headlight Hole

Top Tip: Use strips of painters tape as alignment guides so all three holes line up on each side.

Use tape for alignment

Ream the Second Headlight Hole.

Ream the Second Headlight Hole

Clean the inside of the Second Headlight Hole.

Clean the Inside of the Second Headlight Hole

Ream Running Light Hole.

Ream Running Light Hole

Clean up Running Light Hole.

Clean up Running Light Hole

This is how the Front Holes should look from the outside...

Front Holes Done

and from the inside.

Inside View of Front Holes

Place the Yellow Running Lights inside your Vehicle Body like so.

Running Lights Placed

Glue your Attack Headlights and Front Running Lights inside your Vehicle Body as shown here.

Install Headlights and Front Running Lights

This is how the Front Lights look from the outside.

Headlights and Front Running Lights Installed

Rear Lights

Ream Tail Light Hole.

Ream Tail Light Hole

Clean up Tail Light Hole.

Clean up Tail Light Hole

Place the Red Tail Lights inside your Vehicle Body like so.

Tail Lights Placed

Secure the LEDs with a dab of glue.

Secure the LEDs with a dab of glue

This is how the Tail Lights look from the outside.

Tail Lights Installed

Here's a look inside with all the Body-Mounted Lights installed. You can use the included Zip Tie Mounts to gather your cables for a clean install. Use the included double-stick tape to adhere the HB-2 Lighting Controller to the inner side wall of the cab. Plug the Yellow Running Lights and Red Tail Lights into HB-2 Ports A and B.

Body Lights Installed

Plug the two pairs of Attack Headlights into one of the 2-Way LED Splitters and then plug that Splitter into HB-2 Port D. Take the other 2-Way LED Splitter and Quick Disconnect it into two parts - a "trunk" and a two-legged "Y". Plug the "trunk" of this Splitter into HB-2 Port E or F - we'll be using this to power the "Y" connected to the two pairs of Rock Lights mounted to the Chassis below. Lastly, depending on your Battery, connect either the 2S or 3S Balance Port Power Cable to the HB-2's Power Input Cable.

Headlight 2-Way Splitter

Chassis-Mounted Lights

With the Body-Mounted Lights done, we now turn our attention to the Chassis. First, we'll need to remove two items to make room to work.

Remove two screws and take out the Front Body Mounting Bracket.

Front Body Mount Screws

Remove two screws at the front of the Servo...

Front Servo Screws

and remove one screw at the rear of the Servo.

Rear Servo Screw

Remove the Servo Horn Screw and now you should be able to take out the Servo.

Servo Horn Screw

Using a Zip Tie, connect the Front Left Rock Light to Front Left Chassis Rail. Make sure that the "bump" on the Zip Tie is on the outboard side of the Rail - otherwise it will interfere when you put back the Servo.

Front Left Rock Light

Using a Zip Tie, connect the Front Right Rock Light to Front Right Chassis Rail.

Front Right Rock Light

Using two more Zip Ties, connect the Rear Rock Lights to the Rear Chassis Rails.

Rear Rock Lights

Use Zip Ties to route the Front and Rear Rock Light Cables cleanly along the Chassis, and then connect each to the two-legged "Y" part of the 2-Way Splitter that we had Quick Disconnected earlier (at the end of the Body-Mounted Lights section). (Yes, I know this picture still shows the Splitter not yet Quick Disconnected. Oops.)

Rock Light 2-Way Splitter

At this point, we're ready to Quick Connect the Chassis back to the Body and see how this Mo-Fo looks lighted!

  • $69.95
    Unit price per 
SKU: MYK-AX22
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